Almondine - a nice addition to a dish

Been away a while dealing with the Taxman and other things.  Among other things, I took a week and visited my brother and his family recently and did a little cooking for them.  Dinner was a London broil with a nice au jus, new potatoes and green beans almondine.

My sister in-law has a nicely stocked kitchen, but it is stocked differently than mine.  Scrounging through her spice rack, came up with the following:

Marinade for London Broil

1/4 cup of red wine (local sweet)
1/4 cup of brown sugar
1    tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce
1/2 package of onion soup mix
1 teaspoon of basil
1/4 tablespoon of vinegar

Popped the steak in a 1 qt Ziploc bag and poured in the marinade.  Placed in a large bowl in case of leaks and then left it in the fridge overnight.  The next morning, took it out around noon and left it on the counter until 3:30 to get the steak nearer to room temperature (important).


Au jus
Drained the marinade into a pot.  Added:

1/4 cup of red wine (same as before)
1/4 cup of water
1/4 cup of brown sugar
2 bouillon cubes (as we didn't have drippings)
3 bay leaves
1/8 cup of minced dried onions
2 tablespoons of butter (again, because of no drippings)
1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce

Heated to a boil and let simmer, reducing for about 45 minutes until thorough cooked. 

Went over very well, even with the kids.

Almondine
Not quite the standard, but again, came out quite well.

1 6oz package of almond chips/slices
1/4 teaspoon salt (to taste)
1/4 cup of wine (red or white, depending on which you are using for the main course)
1/4 cup of brown sugar
2 tablespoons of butter

Place all components into a saucepan, brought to a boil and then simmered for about 30 minutes (until a syrup forms).

Note that these measurements are for what I had at hand.  You can plan with the minor adjustments in the last 10 minutes of cooking until things taste the way you want.

We had some almondine left over, so we used it for dessert (pound cake with berries and whip cream).  It also goes well in a green salad with berries and mandarin oranges.

And back to the grindstone...

Been away from the blog for a while now.  Apologies for that, but Uncle Sam and taxes come first.  For those of you interested on both the IT comments and the other stuff, be aware that I am moving all the IT related postings to a new site which will focus strictly on IT.  That site can be found at http://jlovonit.blogspot.com/.  Over the next few days, I will move all of the existing IT posts to that site.  The rest will remain here.

John

White Chocolate Mousse

This is a sinful favorite.  If done properly, it can last for a number of days in the refrigerator (though expect to see some separation).  It also makes an excellent alternative to plain whipped cream, being more flavorful and filling - so less is needed per serving (for those large parties or dinners). 

A note on white chocolate:
Real White Chocolate has as one of its main ingredients cocoa butter - in fact, that is what it is, typically with vanilla, emulsifiers, sugar and a touch of salt thrown in.  If you don't see cocoa butter in the first 3 ingredients on the label, find another brand.   White chocolate chips usually do not contain an appropriate amount of cocoa butter.  The cocoa butter is what gives this dessert component it's richness and staying power (plus whatever health benefits it has to offer).

A few notes on whipping cream:
To successfully whip cream every time, do the following:
1. 10-15 minutes before starting, place the whipping cream in the freezer.
2. If there is room, put the metal (usually aluminum) in the freezer too.  If you don't have the room, half fill the bowl with ice cubes and let it sit on the counter.  Dump the ice, drain and wipe dry before adding cream.
3. Cream of Tartar will help you keep those hard earned stiff peaks keep more than an hour, and at higher temperatures.   It doesn't take much, though how much depends on other ingredients.



White Chocolate Mousse

1. Acquire:
a. 2 Pints of whipping cream
b. 4 bars of white chocolate (do not use chips!!! - see above).
c. Sea salt
d. Vanilla
e. Cream of tartar
2. Place cream in freezer for 15 minutes and place ice in mixing bowl to prep
3. Melt white chocolate in small pot (see option 2 below)
4. Whip cream until the peaks are very stiff cream of tartar, ¼ teaspoon of salt and  1 teaspoon of vanilla.  Option: add 2 oz of Kahlua or Baileys Irish Cream.
5. Slowly blend chocolate mix into the cream.  When the mixture stands on its own (starts to break into fragments),  you are done.
6. Place in a container and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Options:
1. Raspberry melba sauce:
a. Take 1 package of Birdseye frozen raspberries in a sweetened sauce and put it blender with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 4 oz of a berry brandy (your choice, blackberry works well). 
b. Pour sparingly over your dessert.
c. (For extra points, press the pureed mix through cheese cloth to remove the seeds.)
2. Bittersweet chocolate:
a. Take a small non-stick pot (or double boiler if you have one, break up bittersweet chocolate bars (as needed, 4 should be sufficient) and place in pot.  Turn burner (preferably gas) on to lowest flame.  Hold pot over the flame (off the burner), or insert in double boiler  so it heats slowly and uniformly to melt the chocolate, stirring at least once a minute (push unmelted chocolate down into the melted chocolate to speed melt).  Keep warm and melted until serving where you can drizzle it over the mousse and Raspberry sauce.  If you have a food warmer, that can be used, or turn the oven on to 350, the heat on the stove top should be sufficient to keep the chocolate melted.
A surefire winning presentation is the following:

• Place your favorite frozen fruit around the bottom and sides (about 2/3s way up) a sherry snifter.
• Add the white chocolate mousse to cover the fruit
• Drizzle melted bittersweet chocolate over the mixture
• Cover with the Raspberry melba sauce.
• Place in frig until ready to consume.

This makes a sweet finish to a spicy meal.  Serve with a good chilled German Auslaise wine.


Next recipe:  Roast Beef ala John (apologies)

Roast Beef ala John (au Jus)

The most important component of any meal involving beef is the prep work.  What you do to bring out the best for the piece depends on the cut, fat content and marbling of the piece itself.  Many things can be done to increase tenderness (pummeling/tenderizing), marinading, use of specific ingredients (wine, suet, butter or vinegar), bagging (using a paper bag or aluminum foil) and cooking duration.  The most important factor however, is to keep the beef moist.  No matter what you do, a dry piece of beef will be tough.  So how can the novice cook (who is probably already panicking about the sides, appetizers and dessert), guarantee that the beef will be moist and flavorful, without trebling the caloric content?  Some ideas:

1. Choose a good cut of beef, well marbled, without a thick layer of fat.  My favorite, though expensive, is the boneless ribeye roast.  This is a well marbled cut, with little sinew to deal with.  Also as a single piece (as opposed to a rolled roast), you don't have the potential issue of the roast unrolling on you.
2. Proper preparation is also key.  If you decide that you want to add flavor, choose a mix of ingredients that will compliment the beefy flavor.  Some examples:

• Rosemary - the classic viand spice
• Thyme - particularly good with tomatoes in the recipe
• Basil - another aromatic classic
• Cinnamon - to add spiciness, particularly for a sweeter preparation
• Parsley - to kill the smell of onion and garlic (but not the taste!)
• Garlic - my favorite add-in to just about everything - particularly if fresh roasted
• Onion - adds a bit of citric flavoring to the piece and it plays nice with most other ingredients.
• Anchovies (e.g. Worcester sauce) for a bit of saltiness.
• Wine - a Cab, Merlot for a roast or a Sautern or Marsala for medallions.  Other alternatives are beer, sherry or saki.  This really determines the tone for the piece.  It is a good idea to serve the same wine with the meal.
• Natural or brown sugar, molasses or honey - adds sweetness, some good nutrients, and seals the piece without forcing you to sear it.
• Wasabi - another spicy favorite
• Paprika - for a mild heat.
• Black/White pepper - to sharpen the flavor with minimal heat.
• Olive oil - used to meld flavors
• Mushrooms - provides a nice textural contrast, and also a complimentary meatlike flavor
• Carrots - a bit of sweetness and adds some texture.
• Potatoes- absorbs some of the fatty juices, and adds some starch
• tomatoes - a bit of sweetness and along with some acid to help break down the fat.

Given the above, here is my entry for the lazy cooks perfect beef roast.

1. Acquire a good quality boneless ribeye roast.  Allow about 6 oz per person.  This should be done the day before your dinner.  Put the roast in the fridge.
2. Allowing 20 minutes per lb for cooking time, add 4 hours to warm and 20 minutes for the after cooking, and remove the roast from the fridge.  Rinse it, and place on a wire stand in a roasting pan.   Let it warm to about room temperature.  This will prevent unpleasant surprises later.
3. Take a large mixing bowl.  Add the following ingredients for the coating:
• 1 package of Knorr onion soup mix
• 1 cup of brown sugar
• 4 tablespoons of Worcester sauce
• 3 tablespoons of minced garlic (I use Christophers)
• 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper
• 3 fresh basil leaves (or 2 cubes frozen)
• 1 teaspoon of fresh minced parsley (if you use the frozen, use 1 cube)
• 1/2 teaspoon of thyme
• 1 teaspoon of minced/powdered rosemary
• 1 tablespoon of olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon of paprika
4. Mix, adding enough of a good Cabernet (I like TJ's ) to form a paste.  I like to use an old opened bottle for this.  Typically, this will be 1/2 to 1 cup.  Save some for the au jus.
5. Let sit for a bit so the flavors can meld.
6. About 30 minutes before it is time to put the roast in the oven, set the oven to broil and then cover the roast all over with the coating.  This is a one time deal.  Put a meat thermometer in the roast, making sure the end in is the center of middle of the roast.
7. Place the roast in the oven.  Immediately turn the temperature down to 350 degrees.
8. Check periodically.  The roast is done when the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees.
9. Remove the roast and let it sit for 20 minutes.  The internal temperature will rise for 10-20 minutes after you remove it from the oven.  Do not cut the roast yet!
10. Place the roast on a serving platter.

The Au jus

1. Take the drippings from the roasting pan and place in a clear measuring cup.
2. Spoon/pour off the upper clear layer (fat).
3. Place the drippings in an appropriate sized pot.
4. Simmer on a medium flame.
5. Add additional flavorings if desired,  and the rest of the wine.
6. Let simmer until an appropriate flavor and consistency is reached, (not thick, but not watery either).  The au jus should have a distinctive and strong flavor, (like if you dissolve a cube of bouillon in 1/2 cup of water), but it should not be as salty.
7. Place in a boat and serve with the beef.

Some nice additions/sides:

• Mild Horseradish
• My Cranberry sauce
• New Potatoes
• Broccoli, green beans or asparagus spears.
• French bread
• Jarlesberg swiss cheese
• TJ's Cabernet

Salt should not be added by the cook.  This will cause the meat to shrink.  Also, the cook almost always adds too much salt if done at the beginning because the ingredients haven't had the opportunity to release their flavors via cooking.

Pepper, for the same reason, should be used sparingly.  I have always felt that bad cooks use pepper to cover their sins and a general lack of imagination.

In general, let the diner add the salt and pepper to taste.  I note that the flavor only improves with a little age.  So hang on to those leftovers, which microwave just fine.

Next recipe:  London Broil

For that special dinner dessert - Apricot Mousse

I use this mousse as the foundation of many apricot based desserts that I make.  Unlike most store bought mousse, it is a bit healthier due to the reduced amount of sweetner and also the flavor tends to have a bit more punch due to the fruit to cream ratio.  I typically either mix it with frozen fruit in a chocolate sack, or serve with a white chocolate mousse and drizzle bittersweet chocolate over the mix (a raspberry melba sauce is another optional component).

There are typically 2 types of mousse confection: those employing raw eggs and those employing whipped cream.  Of the two techniques, the cream is safer by a large margin.

Note that the mousse’s require a very good large mixer with a whip attachment and a 4 qt bowl with splash shield.  A food processor is also very handy.
Apricot Mousse
1. Go to Trader Joes and acquire:
a. 1 lb of unrefined sugar
b. 1 lb of dried California apricots (will get back to you on what the package says- they have several varieties)
c. 2 pints of whipping cream
d. 1 bottle of lemon juice
e. Powered gelatin (may not be available at TJ’s)
f. Sea salt
g. Crème of tartar

2. In a large saucepan at medium-high heat  add:
a. 2 cups of water
b. 1/2 teaspoon of salt
c. 2 tablespoons of lemon juice
d. 1 cup of sugar
e. Heat this syrup for 5 minutes until sugar is thoroughly dissolved

3. While the syrup is cooking, chop up the apricots in pieces as small as practical (a food processor works well for this).

4. Add apricots, reduce heat to medium.  Add enough water to cover apricots.   Cook until the apricots come apart and you can taste the flavor In the syrup.  Add water as necessary to keep from running out of fluid.  Syrup should be somewhat dense when you are done (cook off excess water).

5. (Optional: add 4 oz of peach brandy).

6. While the apricot syrup is cooking (about ½ way through the 75 minute process):
a. Put 2 pints of whipping crème in the freezer for about 15 minutes.
b. Put 2 cups of ice in the mixing bowl.
c. At 1 teaspoon of crème of tartar.
d. After 15 minutes, dump the ice and take the crème from the freezer and empty it into the bowl.  Scrape the containers as necessary to get the frozen heavy cream out.  Do not add water!!!
e. Attach the whisk and the splash shield and begin whipping the crème at max speed.  Continue until very stiff (peaks stand on own at room temperature) and then reduce to about 30% speed.

7. Slowly sprinkle in 4 teaspoons of gelatin into the apricot mix.

8. Take the apricot mixture off the heat.  Let cool for 5 minutes.

9. Slowly (with the whisk still turning at 30%), spoon in the apricot gelatin mixture.  Blend thoroughly.

10. Place mousse in container and refrigerate until ready for use.

11. Serve: 2 scoops of apricot mousse to 1 scoop of white chocolate mousse and add additional accent flavors as desired.

Next recipe: White Chocolate Mousse

Spicy Cranberry Sauce

I always hated this stuff as a kid.  My mom used to use the canned variety so that is understandable.  A number of years ago, my sister did the base workup on this recipe and this has been a family favorite ever since.  Last year I decided to make it for my holiday party and added a few twists of my own.

Spicy Cranberry Sauce

1 bag of organic cranberries
1/2 cup of  box/bag of raw sugar
1 1/2 cups of orange juice
1/2 cup of raw ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon of ground clove

1. In a non-stick saucepan blend
1. Orange Juice
2. sugar
3. ginger
4. cinnamon
5. clove
2. Heat (Med to high)  till you have a rolling boil, stirring frequently.  Add water as necessary to prevent burning.
3. Rinse and then add cranberries
4. Let the mixture come back to a boil.  Stir as necessary to prevent film buildup on the sides of the saucepan and burning.
5. Continue simmering (reducing heat as necessary), until berries burst (you may need to add water to keep them afloat).
6. Stir until excess fluid is absorbed or evaporated.  (The syrup should have a uniform consistency, but doesn't have to be thick).
7. Remove from heat and store in sealed container immediately.
8. When at room temperature, place in the frig (at least overnight).
9. Serve.

This will produce enough for 12-24 people depending on how much they like cranberry sauce.  Note that the freshness of the ginger will influence the spiciness of the sauce.  It gets better with age (to a point).  Ware the seeds!

Next time: Easy Apricot Mousse.

No Baste Turkey that is sure to please (ported from old site)

Every year, typically between Christmas and New Years Day, I throw a party for those of my friends who won't be away visiting family over the holidays.  The attendance varies from year to year, ranging from a low of 15 to a high of 50.

As you can imagine, cooking for that number of people requires some planning.  Typically, you want to think like a caterer, planning safe but palatable food.  I think differently.  I believe that this is the perfect opportunity to try some new things in addition to the staple set of safe dishes or things that you just get at the grocer/deli/...  Over the next several postings, I will post the recipes that I did this year.  Along with that there will be commentary as to why I chose this dish and selected the preparation technique.

First item in the list is an old favorite that I have been doing for over 20 years.  I started making this dish when I first started throwing parties for a good number of people.  I chose turkey because it was:

1. Safe (hard to mess up to the point of being inedible)
2. Seasonal
3. No one would have high expectations with it.

I did research for preparing fowl, and found a number of interesting elements that were used for squab, duck and chicken.  I then decided to modify a recipe I had put together for twice baked duck and use that.  A candied bird has several benefits for the beginning cook:

1. No basting required - meaning you can focus on other party/dinner preparations.
2. You can overcook it and the meat will still be moist.
3. The turkey will have a pleasant flavor and scent.

What follows became a classic entree for the annual party.  Recipe follows:

No Baste Turkey Brest
Preparation time: 30 minutes plus roasting time.


Ingredients:

• raw (unrefined) sugar (most groceries)
• Cherry Heering liquor (Binney's in Chicago)
• Package of Walnuts or Hazelnuts  (Trader Joes sells raw nuts at a very good price)
• Butter (Organic preferred)
• Turkey Breast (Organic preferred)

1. Place turkey breast in fridge in a pan on a rack to thaw 2 days before cooking.  The day you cook, place on counter top in the same pan and insert a thermometer in the thickest part of the bird.  Do not cook until temp reaches at least 50 degrees (70 degrees is preferred, but no higher).
2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
3. In a good size bowl mix:
1. 1/2 to 1 cup of unrefined sugar
2. 3-6 oz of ground walnuts (or hazelnuts)
3. 1 stick of butter (very soft or melted)
4. Add Cherry Heering  until the mix forms a thick paste.
5. Drain fluid from pan and replace bird on the rack.
6. Spoon mix on the outside of the bird until you have completely covered it.  Patch as necessary.  A large amount will fall into the rack, that is OK.
7. Place bird in oven (allow 20 minutes per pound if less than 6 lb, 15 per lb if over).
8. After 10 minutes (to give time for the sugar to crystallize), reduce heat to 350.
9. Check periodically for the last ½ hour.  Replace thermometer in the bird several places to ensure that the coldest internal temp is 185 before removing the bird.
10. Let cool slightly and carve with a sharp carving knife.

You will find that you have a bird that is moist, tender and flavorful.  Goes very well with stuffing and cranberry sauce.

Next time: Cranberry sauce.